My very first trip to Japan was many, many years ago. I was there on work assignment to attend a meeting of conservationists. It was a great opportunity to discover this singularly unique land and culture. But at that time, the cost of living in Japan was probably the highest in the world. Furthermore, I had only been working for a couple of years and I soon found out that I could barely afford more than a meal of instant noodles. I certainly could not afford to make the train trip from Tokyo to Japan’s ancient capital of Kyoto. It was disappointing to be so close but…….no.
Then in December last year, I finally got to scratch my travel itch by going to Kyoto (only some 20 years late). Over the next couple of weeks, I would like to share some highlights of my trip.
Let me start it off with the stunningly, radiant vision which is Kinkaku-ji, the Temple of the Golden Pavilion.
This beautiful site dates from the 14th century but the pavilion had to be rebuilt after a fire in 1950. There is a saying that “all that glimmers is not gold”. However, in this case, it is! The structure is covered in a thin layer of gold leaf.
We went on a cold December day but the sun came out from behind the clouds and the pavilion seemed to be radiating rays of light. Definitely go when it is sunny for full effect.
I am usually not a fan of ostentatious, gaudy and self indulgent architecture but in this case, it works! The pavilion seemed to naturally belong amongst the tranquillity of the reflecting pond and zen-like gardens. The heron seemed to think so too. Can you see him in the foreground of the picture above?
There was of course a whole gaggle of tourists on that day as well as a number of school groups making a nuisance of themselves. But the magic of the place was still able to give inner peace. If you do plan to visit though, try going on a weekday and as early as possible to avoid the crowd.
This was the first time I had ever seen anybody sweeping the moss! There were a lot of beautiful landscapes in the temple garden with water and moss which as you can see here was lovingly maintained.
One can follow the trail up the hill behind the Golden Pavilion and look back down on the pavilion, the pond and the gardens. There you will find a number of viewing points, a shrine and the unavoidable gift shop. You might also find this charming lady tending to the moss with the pavilion in the background.
Another gem is this tea garden located in amongst the trees. A great place to meditate on the wonders of a warm cup of tea on a cold day. I actually did not stop here for tea but went back to the entrance where we could get Japanese soft serve ice cream. So on that crisp and brisk winter morning, my wife had black sesame and I had green tea ice cream. Very ying and yang.
More of Kyoto to come. Watch this space!
Realm of the Lone Grey Squirrel 
We told ourselves that our next journey to Japan would include Kyoto and to see the Golden Pavilion and Bamboo forest.
Mel & Suan,
Are u going back to Japan anytime soon? Kyoto was more modern than I expected but still lots of the older attractions to enjoy. I am going again at end of March for the cherry blossom. I will be posting on the Bamboo forest soon.
Oh Mann, ist das DIng schön …
Mago,
I remember visiting the Asamkirche in Munich but I found the gold opulence of that church rather gaudy and excessive. Do you know it? I feel closer to God when reflecting God’s glory and not man’s handiwork. The gold was just distracting.
But in the case of the Golden Pavilion, it draws our attention but still reflects its place in the grandeur of nature.
Or maybe I am overthinking this!
The Asam Church is absolutely over the top, very late Baroque. It is a bit of a “look what we can do !” by the brothers Asam. Here in town we have the “Kaepelle”, also late Baroque, where the “official” interior is stroking from gold – while the real place of veneration, where the locals go and burn a candle in front of MAria, is very very humble. Similar the “official” “chappel” in the Residenz – gold, marmor, and cold like an ice cube.
No, you are not overthinking this. Some places are meant to be showrooms, with an additional altar. The Pavillion in itself, as a whole, reflecting as it is in its glow, is an altar, a spiritual place where one can feel one with the creation and the creator. Something the Baroque never wanted. Perhaps some late forms of the Roccoco when all is reduced, but even more playful, tend in this direction.
I found some more intimate places of worship and immersion in Romanic places, but due to their very old age these places were often “made over”. That is why I really want to go to Northern Italy, especially Ravenna. And in some valleys of the Alps some undisturbed Romanic chappels survived.
That third photo is especially gorgeous.
We saw the Golden Pavilion too when we were in Japan a few years ago! But I missed the tea garden — too bad! I could have used a nice cuppa tea.